Poiret - Elégante à la blouse, dessin d'Erté (circa 1912-1913)

3.600 €



Très rare dessin original à l'aquarelle de l'illustrateur et créateur de costumes Erté (Romain de Tirtoff) pour la maison Paul Poiret vers 1912-1913. Ce modèle créé par Erté pour Poiret est fortement inspiré de traditions asiatiques.

Erté était à l'époque employé par Paul Poiret. Ce dessin provient de la collection d'Adrienne Ridou, ancienne première d'atelier de Poiret qui travaille avec Erté lorsqu'il décide de se lancer en tant que couturier en 1914.  



Title Poiret - Elégante à la blouse, dessin d'Erté (circa 1912-1913)

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      Les dessins des modèles créés par Erté et Adrienne Ridou pour les magasins américains Henri Mendel et N. Altman and Company avaient été conservés par Adrienne Ridou et appartiennent aujourd'hui au Victoria & Albert Museum. 

      Dans ses mémoires Erté, things I remember, an autobiography publiées en 1975, Erté revient sur son expérience chez Poiret et le moment où il quitte la maison de couture avec la première Adrienne Ridou et mentionne également en note de bas de page les dessins acquis par le Victoria & Albert Museum : 

      "Towards the end of 1914, despite the war, I managed to make a short trip to Paris -I still had my apartment in the rue de Civry. I looked up Adrienne Ridou, a charming young woman who had been one of Poiret's best seamstresses. When his house closed down she, too, had lost her job. I worked out an arrangement with her whereby she would make dresses to my designs for American buyers, who normally came to Paris to acquire haute couture dresses. Due to my business naivety and legal ignorance, I rashly ordered printed cards which I sent to the buyers, announcing that my designs were made by Adrienne Ridou, a former 'first hand' at Paul Poiret. Then for the first time I experienced the full impact of the unpleasant side of Poiret's character. He promptly sued me for using his name. (...)

      Despite my unfortunate initial experience with Poiret, the idea of exporting my own designs to America turned out to be a good one. I promptly secured an order for thirty-five dresses and coats from Henri Mendel, one of the best-known high fashion shops in New York. N. Altman and Company, the Fifth Avenue department store, also gave me large orders. For the next three years I designed two collections of dresses and coats each year*.

      * In 1967, the Director of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London asked me for some information about a set of my fashion drawings which had just been acquired by the Museum. To my surprise, they turned out to be designs I had left with Adrienne Ridou. The Ridou family had presented them to the museum after her death"

       


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